How to Convert an Epson Ecotank Printer to a Sublimation Printer
A "warts and all" guide to converting a brand-new Epson printer. Learn how to avoid the messy bottle traps, handle the one-way setup, and keep your machine from clogging.
Materials
- Sublimation Ink
- Regular Printer Paper For initial alignment and nozzle checks.
- Sublimation Paper For your first real test after setup.
Equipment
- 1 Epson Ecotank Printer
- Needle and Syringe Kit Optional, but recommended to avoid the "Black Ink Disaster
Instructions
- Get your Epson Ecotank ready. Start with your new or refurbished printer unplugged. You do not want the machine to try and "prime" the lines while the tanks are still empty.
- Unscrew the tops of your sublimation ink bottles and remove the foil seals. Tip: Do this over a paper towel to avoid stains.(I recommend this one)Sublimation Ink
- Open the front panel of the printer to access the link loading area.
- Carefully insert your black ink bottle into the BK port. Warning: Only open one tank lid at a time. If the bottle doesn't "click" in perfectly, it can leak. Watch the reservoir window closely and stop at the max fill line. If the ink you're using uses a syringe, use that to fill the tank.
- Remove the bottle from the hole by gently pulling it straight up. Then close the lid to the cartridge. Repeat the process for Yellow (Y), Cyan (C), and Magenta (M). Ensure you're matching the correct bottle to the correct tank to avoid permanent contamination.
- Plug in the printer and follow instructions for alignment and printing setup. This will pull ink from the tanks into the internal lines. Use regular, cheap printer paper for this. Run the alignment and nozzle checks until you see a perfect, break-free pattern.Regular Printer Paper
- Because the priming process pulls ink into the lines, your tanks will drop slightly. Add more ink to reach the max fill line before putting the bottles away.
Notes
- The Weekly Workout: To avoid the 30-day clog I experienced, print a small color test page at least once a week.
- The Bottle Warning: If you are using "flip-and-push" bottles, be extra careful. If they don't sit right, they can leak and mess up your floor or the other open tanks.
- The Overfill Trap: Avoid running too many "Power Cleaning" cycles. Each one fills the internal waste ink pads faster, which can eventually "brick" the printer via the software.
- Don't waste your good paper:�When testing the printer initially, just use simple printer paper. No need to use your good sublimation printer since those sheets will get tossed anyways.
- The 30-Day Clog: If you haven't used your printer in a month and it won't print correctly, don't panic. Run the "Nozzle Check" and "Head Cleaning" tools from the printer menu. In my experience, two or three standard cleanings will usually clear a month-long clog.
- The "Total Flush" Nightmare: If you let the printer sit for several months, standard cleanings won't be enough. You'll likely need to perform a "Power Cleaning" or even use a manual line-flushing kit. To avoid this, just commit to a weekly test print.
- The "Waste Ink Pad" Error: If your printer says it's at the "end of its service life," it's likely the waste ink pad counter. Even if you physically clean the pads, you'll need a third-party software reset to get it working again. This is a common hurdle with converted printers, so be prepared to look for a reset utility online.
- Leaky Fills: If your ink bottle isn't "clicking" into the port, stop immediately and check the alignment. If ink leaks into the other open reservoirs, you'll need to flush the lines and start again.